yo hello boys and girls,
What a amazing place Chile is. The people are so so friendly and helpful, and we have really tested this by getting lost at every single opportunity humanly imaginable....as in the best one was getting lost for three hours just trying to go ten blocks down the same street...oh dear.
it is really really chiled out here in the sun hehehehe sorry had to throw that one in. We have travelled up and down the coast loads, been up north to Maitencillo and Pitenchuiy or however you spell it, through Valparaiso, San Antonio (got lost again for about fifteen hours) and down to Matanzas, which is Spanish for "The Killing." And now we know why....
We got one really good day in, the first day we were there (Sat). The wave was really pumping, perfect cross shore and a 12-13 foot face. Nice. Unfortunately then the bad luck struck, first when I accidentally got the nose of my board caught in my right line, and dove my 11m in front of a heavy bastard of a wave... basically, it was a case of Rest In Pieces...nuff said.
Untangled my lines and sulked a bit, then pumped my 9m and with the encouraging ring of "quit your bitching, get back on the horse" ringing in my ears, I went back out to show the wave who's boss...
Unfortunately (do you spot a pattern here?) round two didn't go so well... Third wave into the session, (and it was shaping up to be a really good session, really working well, I was really feeling it) the wave was forming up in front of me, i went for a hard off the lip aerial and then BAM. My front foot slipped from my footstrap and I found myself in the splits with ten foot of wave coming down on my head. NOT GOOD.
PAIN. Real, serious pain. Thought I had broken something as I dragged into shore. Four days later, we finally got a verdict from a radiologist who has told me that I have torn a tendon in my leg. That woudl explain the big ass bruise and the enormous swelling (AKA "Ryan's pregnant leg") and so that is the end of the dream....for now. For this event, anyway.
Bring on the Arnica and the road to recovery, and then BRING ON the next shot at this wave. I'm not done with it yet...I swear i am going to come back and rip seven holes of shit out of this wave. Until then, all that's left to do is enjoy sunny Chile as a proper tourist.
See you in the soup...